Day 5 - ...Rosalie Moller, then there was 300 -14/01/2016

Day 5 was always going to be a little bit special. Today my dive log is turning 300, but I’m getting a little ahead of myself. First was the Rosalie Muller, a WWII wreck in deep water (35m+).

Our plan had been to crank up the PPO2 to 1.6 to enable us to dive around the deck without our computer playing the greatest hits of Electronic Disco. This worried me a bit, as did the entry which involved keel hauling ourselves from stern to bow of our own boat before descending to the wreck.

I’ll be honest, I don’t really like this kind of dive and I used a lot of air going down the line. Once on it, despite being at 35m, I calmed and slowed my breathing, but took a conscious decision to not take photographs as this would only deplete my air even quicker. We got back to the boat with 40 bar to spare and without hitting deco. That seemed like a win. What impressed me the most about the wreck was its eerie completeness. It’s dark and a little unnerving.  The Gandalf of the Internet described her before the dive as, “the lady of the Red Sea – revealing her magnificence one fin stroke at a time”.

Then there were 300. At first I thought it would be a poor dive, having dived it the night before, but it proved itself very worthy with an impressive drift, turtle, nudibranch and stargazer fish. The Kingmaker, Hell's Kells and Legend Roy made fine companions. We drifted for over an hour - a clear sign it was decent dive.

Dive 3 of the day was looking to be a bit of a washout with little to see until it sprang to life with the presence of an Eagle Ray. They’re such graceful animals, but sadly I have no footage to share. What was particularly amusing was Hell's Kells dance of victory aimed at Midge and I who never saw it on its first pass. Midge was diving with us because his usual buddy Russ was feigning back pain. The ray, subsequently dubbed 'the Ray of Victory' was only over-shadowed by accusations that our reluctance to swim back against the current meant that we SMB'd the 'Zodiac of Shame' - so named by the chaps of Scuba Leeds who were daft enough to swim against the current and also missed out on the ray. *chuckles*

Pufferfish

Quadricolour Chromodoris

Arabian Picassofish

Turtle

Nudi

Embriated Moray

Blue spotted flatworm

Day 4 - The Day of Wrecks - 13/01/2016

With an itinerary that contained the Dunraven, two dives on the Thistlegorm and a night dive on the Barge, it was always going to be a wreckish day.

I like the Dunraven as a wreck. It's upside down which is unusual and strangely picturesque. The challenge for me is always to get back to the liveaboard from the wreck. I mean, how far can you make your air last? I reckon it is entirely doable, though I have now failed twice. I should say that we never failed because of low air, but rather we got bored of swimming along the Beacon Rock reef into a current.  As it was we no more than about 60m from the boat. Easily done with 80bar.

Like the Dunraven, I’d dived the Thistlegorm before. The last time I was with the Zookeeper and remember not particularly enjoying the current or the penetration into the wreck. On this occasion, I knew what to expect and so I was far more comfortable on both dives.

The Kingmaker had agreed to lead us in the penetration portion of the dive. It gave rise to one of my heartiest underwater chuckles as he headed into a block entrance and had to reverse out. In fairness to him, he actually did a pretty darn good job after that initial moment, but I still gave him a few metres head start throughout the dive in case it happened again.

The Barge at night was a mixed experience. It’s a good site with lots of Morays, Stonefish, Scorpionfish and nudis, but there were just too many people on it. Our little group of 4 got split up and I took the decision to swim with Trist out of the Barge and wait for it to clear. I think Hell's Kells & Royston did the same thing, but went the opposite way, as we all reassembled ten minutes later with no one else on it.

Dunraven

Thistlegorm Locomotive

Thistlegorm Gun

Kingmaker & The Thistlegorm

Fimbriated Maray

Stonefish

Day 3 - The Narc Shark and the Deep Blue - 12/01/2016

Shark & Yolanda reefs are two of the more spectacular reefs in the northern Red Sea. Although, I sometimes think they are so vast and sweeping that vista sometimes that you miss the life that makes its life there. It was on the this reef that I had my first narc of the week. Dives one and two of the day were on this reef.

I always like to keep my eyes on the deep blue. It's where you see sharks and some of the bigger marine life. Well on dive one I was squinting into the blue and I saw one. Well, I thought I did. It seems it was a turtle, but at 35.5m and working hard into a head current it was definitely a narc shark at the very least. I chased it, until my dive computers started playing the classic hits of disco-electonica sending me up to more sensible depths. Meanwhile, the rest of the group looked on bemused. I rallied at the end of Yolanda and regrouped my senses. It was a great dive though! Back on the boat I was the butt of the jokes. I didn't mind, I saw a narc-shark.

For the Kingmaker, a large Napoleon Wrasse seemed to hold his attention. It's not the best picture, but you can certainly see the scale of it.

Our second dive saw the Kingmaker who knew this reef well take a short cut across 'the saddle' between the reefs in the deep blue. I think the we went into slightly deeper blue than expected because we arrived on Yolanda Reef on the shallow remnants of the Yolanda from which the reef takes its name. We also arrived before everyone else. The upside was that we got to spend a lot longer on Satellite Reef and with a turtle we'd seen earlier.

The third and fourth dives of the day were at Beacon Rock. The highlight of the dives here was getting to dive on the wreck of a liveaboard that sunk here a few years ago. There really wasn't that much to see. Although Hells Kells did spot a warted nudibranch of some kind.*

Turtle

Kingmaker & Napoleon Wrasse

Turtle

* I know, it's amazing how nonchalant you become about some of the diving very quickly.

Day 2 - Carnatic, Marcus and the Alternatives - 11/01/2016

The Carnatic is considered one of the oldest wrecks in the Red Sea having sunk in the 19th century. It's really rather beautiful. Though, as I discovered, it's a tight fit up at the bow. I kind of wished I'd lost a few Kgs before going in. While swimming round it towards the end of the dive The Dangerous Brothers had spotted a nice nudibranch - a wart slug.

The Marcus, also known as the Tile Boat, was without the doubt the surprise of the trip. I'd never heard of it before, but she turned out to be a fine wreck with some great life and swim throughs. As it's name suggests it was laden with tiles when it went down. The tiles are still there today and all stamped "Made in Italy".

We were all a bit sceptical about the Alternatives. All of us had dived it before and didn't have a lot of positive things to say about it. So when it emerged that the last two dives of the day were on this reef we were a bit disappointed. As punishment, we asked for the dive guide to join us on the first one. He actually, made the most of a very average Red Sea dive site spotting barracuda, a turtle, scorpion fish and a nice nudi.

The night dive saw me choose to forgo any photographic activity as I instead buddied a relatively novice diver. Having no idea how he was in the water I opted to keep an eye on him. As it is, Kung Fu Trist turned out to be a very competent diver - a credit to the BSAC club that trained him. He ended up joining myself, Royston and Hells Kells for the next few night dives.

Carnatic Propeller

Inside Marcus

Crocodile fish

Lion fish

Devil Red Scopionfish

Blue spotted ray

Midge's nudi

Reef life

Stonefish

Day 1 - The Poseidon Adventure begins - 10/01/2016

The day began, as all liveaboards do, with a check dive. The reef (Poseidon) was pleasant, somewhat like an aquarium, but with nothing of any great interest. It was, afterall, a check dive.

It was to get better with a move to the Giannis D – one of the reasons for my trip.* The Giannis D ran aground and sunk in 1983 and has been sitting at a 45 degree angle confusing divers ever since. It's really quite disorientating, I personally began using my torch and bubbles  as a plumb line while penetrating. It's a great wreck and at a little more than 20m very accessible.

While inside the wreck we lost the Kingmaker amidst the dazzle of Royston's lights. Knowing he was no longer inside the wreck, the remaining three of us emerged and had a look for him. Now when you lose your buddy you tend to stick to standard buddy separation procedure, but on this occasion we asked ourselves what would the Kingmaker do? We took a gamble and headed to the shallower bow of the boat where we found him snuggled in like a cuckoo with another buddy pair - panic over, dive saved. It made me wonder though....

Our third and final dive of the day was a night dive on the Sha'ab Abu Nuhas reef itself. I took the opportunity to have some with an inexpensive UV torch I'd been given for Christmas. The down side was that this meant I'd have to dive with a yellow filter on my camera - something which I'd never done before. IT definitely messes with the white balance of the camera. As such I have no fluorescing photographs. I do, however, have some nice little video clips and some non UV but yellow filtered pictures of Spanish Dancers!

To add even more colour to the experience, the Kingmaker was using a red filter on his video light. Apparently, it doesn't scare the reef life quite as much and so you see a bit more on the dive.

Kingmaker

Hell's Kells

Fish & Coral

Giannis D bow

Porcupinefish

* I've done a Red Sea Liveaboard before and I have dived much of this itinerary before. However my last boat was wooden hulled and poor weather meant she wasn't able to make the crossing over to Sha'ab Abu Nuhas.

Return to the Red - 09/01/2016

I'm doing a liveaboard with Blue O Two Blue Melody on the Red Sea. Based out of Hurgahda, Egypt, she is considered one of the better boats in the BO2 fleet.

I am diving with some blog regulars the Kingmaker and Bridget (who I've taken to calling Hell's Kells) and a chap we met on the boat who we'll call Royston. He's a BSAC diver from Bristol who, it appears, doesn't actually breath.

On the boat are a collection of great characters from all over the UK. Midge & Russ -  the Dangerous Brothers, the lads from Leeds Scuba and whole who host of others who I'll mention as we go on.

Back: Me, Midge, Kingmaker,Royston
Front: Hell's Kells & Ahmed

Day 6 - Time To Say Goodbye Part 1 - 23/11/2014

The final day on the boat was provided us with two dives. The first at Jackson Reef and the second at Ras Umm Sid.

Jackson Reef delivered a very pleasant red anemone without much excitement. By way of contrast, Ras Umm Sid (one of the fluffiest dives) gave us a free swimming conger and a turtle as well as underwater high jinks.

Al-chemist demonstrated his underwater BCD surfing technique while I rode the Lawman as though he were Seabiscuit. It was a fitting final dive.

Riding Seabiscuit by Vivianne

Red Anemone

Giant Trevally

Spanish Dancer Eggs

Moray

Turtle & Bubble

Turtle

200 - 22/11/2014

When I first started diving I was told by an instructor that th majority of people who invest the time and the money to learn to dive never get beyond 100 dives. I was alsways going to get a least that far purely on the basis of getting my monies worth out of my kit.  However three years later it was time for dive 200.

We moored in the south lagoon of Tiran Island for our night dive and were to dive the large pinnacle the boat as moored to.

I donned my special shorts. We danced, kitted up and I lead my honour guard out into the water off the back of the boat. The stride entry was perfect, though as I hit the water I realised one of my Seawing Novas had broken. This was an ominous beginning. I threw it back on to the boat and was handed a replacement for the dive.

As we dropped to around 10m we practically landed on top of a large free swimming Moray Eel that was ultimately to accompany us for the most of the dive. We swam through the dark to the pinnacle where most of the group headed round in a clockwise direction while the Zookeeper and I went clockwise as per our dive guides onboard instructions. Not that it made a difference, but I did like the moment when we went from being on our own to swimming towards the larger troop. It was all very James-Bond-underwater-fight-scene-esque.

I never took pictures, but I did shoot some video. It made me realise I really need a proper videolight.

When I got back aboard I discovered that one of the wee guys that helps you to kit up had given me Smooth Criminals fins instead of my own. He'd broken one earlier in the week. So that was £100 saved. Perhaps I can put that towards a video light to celebrate my 200th dive. :)

Thanks to Aquatron for the shorts and Total TeamWear Scotland for the numbering. Also a big shout out to the guard of honour. I had a blast!!!!

Day 5 - The Road To 200 - 22/11/2014

They say in diving that if you don't have a picture then it never happened. It's true, underwater your eyes can be easily decieved.

Today saw me undertake dives number 197-200. It seemed fitting that dive 200 was going to be a night dive. My log book is about 50% that.

However, before that particular moment of legend I still had to dive, Thomas, Woodhouse and Jackson reefs. The reefs lie in the Straits of Tiran in the Gulf of Aqaba.

The day was always going to be a bit farcical with one of Snapdragon's rhibs either broken down or burst. They hadn't been very reliable all week.

During the first dive (Thomas Reef) I spent most of my time watching the space between the edge of the reef and the blue. Then I saw something, something big. I was sure it was another reef shark. At the surface the Zookeeper disagreed, but the Lawman also claimed to have seen it. However, neither of us took pictures therefore we never saw it. Them's the rules!

Woodhouse Reef provided us with more drifting and an alleged 'cleaning station'. It did however provide us with one half of the legendary Derola buddy pair being that the first half was sitting the dive out. I liked it as a dive - long and straight with porcupine fish and a turtle.

Jackson Reef provided us with more drift diving and a prolonged wait on the surface to be picked up. However, the boat banter was enough (for some of us) to make up for the certain doom had it been an emergency. :)

Then came two hundred....

Banners and Butterflies

Turtle

Red Anemone

Camera Failure

Zookeeper & Porcupinefish

Day 3 - It Didn’t Start So Well – 20/11/2014

The day started badly. There was vomiting, medicinal drugs and time for recovery. As such I missed the first dive – yet another trip round the Thistlegorm. By the time we’d moved to the second site, the humorously named Small Crack, the drugs were kicking in. I was fit to dive.

The Small Crack began with a rhib to the outer part of the lagoon. We rolled off and dropped down to around 20m - practically on top of a large moray eel. Swimming along for what seemed like ages we finally reached the area that formed the crack. The tide which was rushing into the lagoon soon sucked us through the shallow canyon towards the boat. It was great fun. The Zookeeper and I missed it by a considerable margin and had to be towed back to the ship by the rhib. I felt a tinge of 007. The dive also saw me break my duration record – 71 minutes.

The remaining dives of the day were at a site named the Alternatives. I think  because you should dive somewhere alternative. Despite a dull first dive on the site the night dive improved considerably. The dive included:

• an inquisitive masked puffer fish
• a scrawled filefish (90cms)
• a bait ball being attacked by barracuda and squid

No biggies yet. However, tomorrow is another day.

Moray Eel

Swimming Away

Upstanding Member of the Dive Community

Masked Pufferfish

Goatfish

Scrawled Filefish

Day 4 - Oh The Shark Has Pretty Teeth Dear – 21/11/2014

So today's dives were over three epic reefs:

• Shark & Yolanda reef
• Jackfish Alley
• Gordon Reef

I won’t lie, at the start of the day I had lost heart. One turtle, a couple of moray eels but little else – other than the myriad of life one comes to spectacularly ignore. The Zookeeper and I wanted sharks, dolphins and or more turtles. And as I said, we’ve only had one turtle.

Shark & Yolanda passed with just more of the same stuff (although the cargo of cludgies spread over the sea bed when the Yolanda sank is impressive). Jackfish Alley had a nice short stretch of cavern penetration but little else. In essence, I was sweeping by some of the finest reefs on the planet and was bored. Then came Gordon Reef.

Getting swept along with the current I finally relented and said a prayer. Here is what I prayed:

“God, I’d really like to see a shark in a non-threatening, exciting, safe way. Can you do that?”

No sooner had I thought the prayer when I heard the Zookeeper’s furious rattle. I looked round thinking “Turtle”, only to see her signalling shark. My brain instantly thought “Turtle Shark?! Wait that’s not even a real shark.”  Afterwards, the Zookeeper revealed she too had been "asking the Universe for something big".

Then  I saw it. First, I saw the main body followed by white tipped fin. A white tip reef shark. After that the dive was over mentally . I couldn't think of anything else. Even as I went down for my night dive, I knew the day was complete.

I've attached both the Zookeeper and I's videos of the encounter. You'll notice I kept the Zookeeper and myself between the shark - my video is entirely rubbish, but when you see the Zookeepers bubbles you'll realise how strong the current was we were fighting. Smart thinking.

Clam

More Yolanda Wreckage

Weird Anemone

Jewel Fairy Basslets

Cavern Penetration

Free Swimming Moray

Hunting Lionfish